Mountaineer Satyarup Siddhanta and a Bengal team complete four ascents in Ladakh, including three first ascents and a new route on Chang Chenmo Kangri
KOLKATA: A mountaineering team from West Bengal has completed four mountain ascents in eastern Ladakh, including three first ascents and a new route to Chang Chenmo Kangri at 6,536 metres.
The achievement came during the Chang Chenmo Expedition 2026 organised by Sonarpur Arohi. Veteran mountaineer Rudra Prasad Halder led the team, with Guinness World Record-holding mountaineer Satyarup Siddhanta as deputy leader and Anindya Mukherjee as mentor.
The expedition began on August 25 and required the climbers to navigate difficult terrain, extreme cold, water shortages and logistical obstacles. The team completed its ascents in self-supported alpine style, without fixed ropes or high-altitude porter assistance.
Three First Ascents and a New Route
The team summited Chang Chenmo Kangri on September 11 through a new route. The 6,536-metre mountain was one of four peaks climbed during the expedition.
The climbers also achieved first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks, with approximate heights of 6,400 metres, 6,420 metres and 6,274 metres. These ascents took place on September 9, 16 and 20, respectively.
The expedition’s approach relied on the team’s technical skills, route exploration, planning and collective decision-making rather than external high-altitude support.
Satyarup Siddhanta Brings Extensive Global Climbing Experience
Deputy leader Satyarup Siddhanta is known for his achievements in high-altitude mountaineering. He became the first Indian and, at the time, the youngest person in the world to climb both the Seven Summits and the Seven Volcanic Summits.
He has summited Mount Everest and skied 111 kilometres to the South Pole while pulling a 50-kilogram sled. His mountaineering record also includes first ascents of Gupt Parvat and Monto Massif, alongside notable climbs such as Mount Brammah and Mount Kenya.
Reflecting on the Ladakh expedition, Siddhanta said the climbs demanded endurance, technical ability and trust among team members.
“This expedition tested our technical abilities, endurance and teamwork. Climbing in such a remote region without fixed ropes required careful planning and trust in one another. Each summit was a collective achievement,” he said.
Rudra Prasad Halder Guides the Expedition
Expedition leader Rudra Prasad Halder has climbed prominent Himalayan peaks, including Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga and Indrasan. His experience in exploratory mountaineering and route planning was important in navigating the remote Chang Chenmo region.
Halder said the team faced route changes, extreme cold and water shortages but remained committed to its objectives.
“Our objective was to explore challenging mountain terrain and achieve our climbing goals through a self-supported approach. Despite having to change our route, face extreme cold and deal with water shortages, the team remained focused. Completing four ascents, including three first ascents, is a proud moment for Sonarpur Arohi,” he said.
Glacier Challenge Forces Team to Abandon Another Attempt
The expedition also faced a dangerous situation during an attempt to climb another peak. Eight climbers spent several hours exposed on a glacier at approximately 5,900 metres, where temperatures fell to around minus 30 degrees Celsius.
They eventually abandoned the attempt and returned safely to Camp 1.
Mentor Anindya Mukherjee said the experience highlighted the importance of judgement, adaptability and self-reliance in demanding mountain environments.
He emphasised that mountaineering requires patience and the ability to change plans when conditions become difficult.
New Peaks Proposed to Honour Hillary, Tenzing and Netaji
Sonarpur Arohi has proposed naming the three newly climbed peaks Mount Edmund Hillary, Mount Tenzing Norgay and Netaji Subhas Parvat.
The proposals seek to honour Sir Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay and freedom fighter Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. The club has received consent from Peter Hillary, Jamling Tenzing Norgay and representatives of the Netaji Research Bureau. Official recognition of the names is still pending.
Fourteen Climbers Take Part in the Expedition
The expedition team consisted of Rudra Prasad Halder, Satyarup Siddhanta, Anindya Mukherjee, Naitik Nilay Naskar, Debasish Majumder, Dipashree Pal, Tuhin Bhattacharya, Wrik Roy, Aparesh Sannigrahi, Malay Purkait, Rahul Halder, Ratan Acharya, Yasmina Khan and Niranjan Pal.
The team included two female climbers, with Naitik Nilay Naskar and Debasish Majumder contributing significantly to route exploration.
The four ascents, including three first ascents and a new route to Chang Chenmo Kangri, represent a major achievement for Sonarpur Arohi. The expedition underscores the importance of technical expertise, teamwork and self-reliance in exploring the high-altitude mountains of eastern Ladakh.
